I've heard that it is good to brush your dog's teeth. How do I do this and how often should it be done?

Use veterinary toothpaste.

Brushing your dog's teeth, combined with professional dental cleanings by a veterinarian, is a very important part of maintaining the animal's health. A dog with healthy teeth and gums is more likely to keep its teeth for life, continue to eat hard food, and have less breath odor.  In addition, dogs that have a consistent dental health regimen are less likely to develop bacterial infections of the bloodstream. Bacteria from the teeth are known to colonize the valves of the heart, causing a type of heart disease called bacterial endocarditis.

Dogs, especially the smaller breeds, actually require the same kind of care for their teeth as people do for theirs. Smaller breeds tend to acquire a tremendous amount of plaque and tartar on their teeth. This is most likely because they often do not chew on bones and other hard items that help with the mechanical breakdown of plaque and tartar, or eat soft, canned food rather than the hard varieties.

It is important to start brushing your dog's teeth as early in life as possible. Never use human toothpaste, since it contains foaming agents that can cause the dog to vomit if swallowed. Veterinary toothpaste does not contain these foaming agents, so a dog may safely swallow it. Most dogs love the taste of the veterinary toothpaste, which comes in a variety of flavors, including chicken, beef, and malt. (Most pets will try to lick it off the brush before their teeth have been cleaned!) Also available are fluoride sprays and gels that can be applied to the teeth after brushing in order to help prevent tooth decay.

There are many different types of toothbrushes designed for dogs. Some fit over the finger and are called "finger brushes," while others are very long and angled, with a wide brush head. These can be purchased from a veterinarian or a pet store. Some people use a human toothbrush with soft bristles that will not damage the gums.

Use the toothbrush on all the surfaces of your dog's teeth -- especially the back molars -- at least one to two times a day. You'll quickly see results in the dog's breath odor. The long-term benefits to its teeth, gums, and general health, will be rewarding to both you and your pet.

Yes, cats can get heartworms.

Yes, cats can be infected by heartworms. But they do have a lesser incidence of the disease compared with dogs in the same geographical location. Female cats seem to have an even stronger resistance to heartworms than males. Unlike dogs, cats can remain asymptomatic throughout the course of the disease; eventually, heartworms in cats may die off without causing any serious harm to the lungs or other organs.

If you live in a region with a heavy heartworm incidence, it is recommended that your cat be put on heartworm prevention. This medication is safely formulated for felines and should be given orally once a month to prevent new heartworm infections. Currently, there is no safe method for killing heartworms in cats. For more in-depth information about feline heartworm disease, see the article Feline Heartworm Disease in our encyclopedia.

Apply tweezers to the tick's head and pull gently.

Animals easily pick up ticks in their fur from the outdoors. Ticks will attach themselves to the skin for several days, until they are full of blood sucked from their host. During this period, they can transmit serious diseases to cats and dogs and should be removed as soon as they are detected on the animal. Some diseases can be prevented by early tick removal, since the transfer of the infectious agent can take up to 72 hours.

Ticks should be removed with tweezers applied to the portion of the tick's head closest to the skin. Pull gently and with steady pressure. Examine the tick to be sure the entire head was removed. Afterwards, the bite wound should be cleaned with antibacterial soap and rinsed well.

Several options are currently available to prevent ticks from attaching themselves to your pet, and to kill the ones that do. Frontline® is a safe and effective topical flea and tick control product that is applied to the animal's skin once a month. A Preventic® tick collar, although not a flea deterrent, is an effective method of preventing and killing ticks for up to three months. There are many shampoos, dips, and sprays that can be used to kill ticks in certain animals. However, kittens, puppies, and some adult cats can be sensitive to these products. Consult your veterinarian about which products are appropriate for your pets.

I made sure my dog got all of the necessary booster shots when he was a puppy.  Do I still need to take him in for vaccinations now that he's older?

Dogs need yearly protection.

Every puppy that was properly vaccinated needs a yearly vaccine booster for DHLP-P, and, depending on the state laws, a rabies vaccine either yearly or every two to three years. DHLP-P is a multi vaccine that combines protection from several viruses into one.

Most vaccines need to be repeated on a yearly basis because the immunity that the vaccine stimulates declines over time. A vaccine usually contains altered viral antigen that stimulates the dog's immune system to produce antibodies against the virus. The viral antigen is altered in the vaccine so that it does not cause the actual disease, but it stimulates the immune system to develop defenses against the virus in case of exposure to the disease at a later time.

Some typical ongoing vaccinations for dogs include the following:

1. DA2LP-P vaccine- this contains a combination of Distemper, Adenovirus- type 2 that causes Infectious Canine Hepatitis (liver disease), Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus.
2. Rabies vaccine - every year to three years depending on the state laws.
3. Lyme vaccine - usually given yearly, this vaccine is recommended for dogs at high risk of tick exposure. Deer ticks or "hard ticks" can transmit bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi, which cause Lyme disease. There is some controversy as to the use and effectiveness of this vaccine. Consult with your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for Lyme disease.
4. Coronavirus - this is given to dogs at risk of developing coronavirus and is used when owners want all possible protection against viral diarrhea.
5. Bordetella vaccine - This vaccine is either given intranasally (drops into the nose) or as an injection under the skin. The intranasal form has been found to provide better immunity. The vaccine helps protect against infectious tracheobronchitis, or kennel cough.

Consult with your veterinarian about your dog's risk and need for vaccines such as the Lyme, coronavirus, and Bordetella vaccines. The DA2LP-P and Rabies vaccines need to be repeated in all dogs and usually are not optional.

Although some breeders opt to give vaccines themselves, veterinarians do not advocate unlicensed individuals vaccinating animals. Nevertheless, if you are giving vaccines, please be sure that you know how to do so properly. If vaccines are given accidentally into a blood vessel, there can be a severe shock reaction and the dog can die. Also, if vaccines are left out on the shipping dock, not properly refrigerated, or not given correctly, the dog will be inadequately protected from potentially life threatening diseases.

Remember that vaccines are not the entire reason that an animal needs to go the veterinarian annually. A physical exam is critical, because this allows the veterinarian to detect any problems or diseases before it is too late to do anything about them.

What's the best way to keep my cat healthy?  What kind of maintenance care does she need?

Visit the veterinarian regularly.

All kittens should go through examinations, deworming, multiple vaccinations, and neutering. After these are completed, your trips to the veterinarian will be much less frequent. Most healthy adult cats need to visit the veterinarian only once a year.

Vaccinations are continued throughout a cat's life. Most vaccinations are given once a year, although a rabies shot may be given as little as every three years based on the laws in your region. Outdoor cats are at a higher risk of contracting a fatal feline virus, and so require more vaccinations than those that stay indoors. We recommend that you keep your cat inside.

It is a good idea to have a sample of your cat's feces evaluated for parasites at least every one to two years. Outdoor cats are at increased risk of being exposed to parasites and should probably have this test done twice a year.

Heartworm medication is recommended to prevent heartworm infections in indoor and outdoor cats. Since mosquitoes can get inside the house, indoor cats are at risk of heartworm infection. This flavored medication is given once a month and is available from your veterinarian.

Monitor your cat's skin and haircoat for any signs of parasites or hair loss. Fleas and ticks not only are nuisances for cats that go outside, but also may cause diseases in your pet. Contact your veterinarian for safe and effective treatment and prevention products.

Routine brushing significantly reduces the incidence of hairballs and provides bonding time between you and your cat. This is especially important for heavy shedders, longhaired cats, and geriatric animals that may have trouble grooming themselves. A hairball remedy or treat may be used to help ingested fur move through the digestive tract and reduce the number of hairballs your cat vomits.

Maintain that perfect pedicure. Cats should have their toenails trimmed periodically to keep them from damaging your house, furniture, and skin. If this practice is started at a young age, the cat will tolerate it more easily throughout its life. Have an experienced person help you the first few times that you attempt to trim your cat's toenails.

Feel like brushing your cat's teeth? Some cats will tolerate brushing if it is started gradually and made a pleasant experience. Veterinary toothpaste must be used to prevent stomach upset. Most of these toothpastes are available in a chicken or tuna flavor that  cats find appealing. Consult your veterinarian about brushing techniques and supplies.

Feed your cat a good quality adult maintenance cat food. It is not necessary to feed canned or semi-soft food or to provide a variety of food types, as feeding variation can lead to the creation of a finicky eater, not to mention stomach upset or diarrhea from abrupt changes in the diet. Dry kibble may help keep your cat's teeth and gums in better condition.

Be sure to provide plenty of fresh water daily. Some cats do not like to drink standing water. Drinking fountains, which have become widely available, may be a better idea for these felines.

Scoop the cat litter daily. Most cats are very picky about bathroom facilities, including the brand of litter that you use. Once you find a brand that you both find acceptable, stick with it for the long haul. This will cut down on the possibility of "mistakes" that you could find around the house.

Finally, be sure to give your cat plenty of tender loving attention and play time. Playing games will help keep that indoor cat from becoming overweight. Plus, those fun times together are what build a strong bond between pet and owner.

I can keep my dog from mating with other dogs, so why is it important to get him neutered?

Neutering may protect him from cancer.

Most of us are told to neuter our pets to decrease the overabundance of unadopted dogs that are put to death in animal shelters. Although this is a valid argument, it is not the sole reason that neutering should be considered.

Unneutered male dogs have a higher incidence of certain cancers and prostatic diseases. Female dogs that are left intact are more likely to develop mammary tumors, uterine and ovarian cancers, and uterine infections. All of these medical conditions can be quite serious, and may even result in a shortened life span for your companion. Neutered pets tend to live longer and enjoy a healthier life.

Dogs that resist training may also benefit from neutering, because after the procedure they more likely to accept the owner's leadership. Neutered dogs are also less likely to roam the neighborhood -- and hence have a lesser risk of being hit by a car, being involved in a dogfight, or becoming a nuisance to your neighbors.

I want to have my cat declawed. Can you give me information regarding the newest cat declawing procedure done with the surgical laser? I caught the end of a television segment about this and heard that bleeding and pain are at a minimum with the laser technique. Thanks.

The laser acts as a scalpel that removes the tissue from which the claw grows.

Using a laser to perform onychectomy, or declaw, in the cat has become popular in many areas due to the increased availability and improved cost of surgical lasers.

The laser energy results in sealing and coagulation of nerves and small blood vessels. This has the effect of decreasing blood loss, although this is generally minimal in standard declaw techniques. Laser techniques are also reported to result in less pain following the procedure. This does not mean the elimination of pain, however, and you should be sure that appropriate pain medications prescribed by your veterinarian are administered.

In a typical laser declaw procedure (laser onychectomy), after anesthetizing the cat, a bone called the third phalanx (one for each claw) is removed. The tissue from which a claw grows, called the ungual crest, is situated on top of each of these bones. By removing the third phalanges, the claw growth tissue is also removed, thus preventing claw regrowth.

A veterinarian experienced in laser surgery can perform the procedure relatively quickly, with few complications. However, excessive heating of the bone can occur if too much energy is applied or if the beam energy is applied too long. This can lead to infection and other complications. Thus the technique is not "fool-proof."

Overall, owners of cats that have undergone laser declaw, as well as many veterinarians performing the procedure, report better pain control in the initial postoperative period.

The main drawback to the procedure is the added cost, which may be considerably higher than conventional declaw procedures in some regions of the country. The older, established procedures are both safe and effective, but laser declaw techniques do appear to have some advantages if the cost is not a major obstacle.

My dog is nine years old, and is a happy, healthy fellow. He does not get much exercise, though. What is a good exercise routine for him?

Keep him active.

There are many ways to exercise your dog, but the key is to start him out slowly and then steadily increase the length and intensity of his workouts. It is the same philosophy as with humans. Too much too fast will cause soreness and could even damage weak ligaments.

Walking is still one of the best exercises. A medium-sized dog should be walked about one and one-half to two miles a day. Some dogs also love to run, but I would recommend a two or three week walking routine before working up to short jogs. Use your own judgment as to when your dog has had enough by how he acts the following day. If he is getting stiff, or is slow to rise, you should slow things down a bit.

Games that dogs love to play also provide good exercise. Fetching thrown objects, or playing hide-and-seek when two or more people are present, are excellent diversions for dogs. We don't recommend tug-of-war because it can cause damage to your dog's teeth, and tends to increase aggressive tendencies.

Other means of exercise include agility training, doggy play-groups, and obedience classes. Most dogs enjoy these activities because it works their mind as well as their body. If you search out a play-group, try to find one that has dogs of similar ages and carefully "test" them together on leashes first. Sometimes play can get out of hand and escalate into a fight.

If you have any questions about your dog's health and its ability to exercise safely, consult your regular veterinarian. A veterinary examination will reveal if an underlying heart condition or other problem exists that could make exercise dangerous.

My dog makes some strange movements while it's sleeping.  It "twitches" or "jerks."  Is this normal?

Maybe it's dreaming.

This means that your dog is in a state of sleep that in humans is termed rapid eye movement, or REM, sleep. It is during this time that humans, if awakened, say that they were dreaming. Veterinarians speculate that pets also dream. Although this has not been extensively studied, many veterinarians feel that dogs probably dream about chasing things, and playing with other animals and people. It is not necessary to wake REM-sleeping dogs up, as they will not harm themselves. A good, undisturbed nap will allow your dog to wake up feeling refreshed and able to play.

Every time my dog is let outside, he ends up eating the feces of other dogs.  This is a disgusting habit.  Is it unhealthy, too?

Feces may contain parasites

Coprophagy, or eating feces, is an unpleasant but common behavior of dogs. Unfortunately, dogs can become infected with intestinal parasites by ingesting excrement, which may contain microscopic parasitic eggs. Since your pet has been eating feces, it is very important that your veterinarian evaluate a stool sample to look for infection. There are several proposed causes for coprophagy. Boredom is one of them; the behavior is more prevalent in dogs that are crated for long periods of time without stimulation. In addition, dogs may eat their own waste as a way of "hiding the evidence" if they receive punishment for inappropriate defecation. Uncommonly, there are also some underlying medical conditions that are thought to be associated with coprophagy, such as a poor diet that is lacking in essential nutrients or vitamins. The problem also may be caused by a pancreatic enzyme deficiency. Some behavioral experts feel that coprophagia may be related to a dog's instinctual nature to scavenge for food. It is also possible that dogs eat their feces as a way of playing, learning, and sampling their environment. Treatment of this problem can be challenging. The first step is to keep the area where the dog voids meticulously clean. This often means following the dog and immediately cleaning up the stool. In addition, covering the stool with an ingredient that the dog dislikes may be helpful. Compounds such as red pepper sauce or bitter-tasting substances, which are available in pet stores, may discourage dogs from eating  feces. You can also try sprinkling dog food with Accent meat tenderizer or MSG -- monosodium glutamate -- since these products may help discourage the eating of stool. Try to deter your dog from this behavior early on, before it becomes a habit that is difficult to control.

Flies won't leave my outdoor dog alone. He has sores and scabs on his ears  - what should I do?

Take him indoors

All animals that spend time outdoors are susceptible to fly bites--especially those that are confined to a small area because they can't run away. Some animals are even more attractive to certain fly types than others. Stable flies have mouth parts that can tear open the flesh and suck blood from the wound. This causes a lot of irritation to the area and it can sometimes become infected with repeated fly strike attacks.

Flies most commonly attack the ears and face of dogs. The fly bites are usually on the tips or folded part of the ear in breeds with floppy ears. The bite wounds are often red, crusty, and may ooze blood. They can be very itchy and painful.

The best prevention is to house the dog indoors where the flies can not get to it. If this is not possible, then it is important to use fly repellant cream or lotion that can be applied to the ears to prevent the attacks. There are also various flea sprays available that may be beneficial. Your veterinarian will be able to recommend a fly prevention product that will help prevent the fly strike.

If there are areas around the animal that are attracting the flies such as straw piles, manure droppings, trash, or anything else, then removing the source of the flies is important. The use of safe and approved pesticides may also be beneficial to consult your veterinarian.

Check your dog's ears regularly.

An ear infection is a common ailment in dogs, especially if they have skin conditions or allergies. Most owners will not pick up on the symptoms of an ear infection until the dog's symptoms are severe. The earlier an infection is detected and treated, the faster the dog will recover, and the less pain and discomfort it will have to endure.

It is recommended that you thoroughly check your companion on a regular basis. This good habit will allow you to detect problems sooner and will teach your dog to cooperate during an examination. It will be much easier to treat your pet for an illness if it has already become accustomed to having you touch various parts of its body.

To evaluate the ears, you should look at how your dog holds its head. Is it holding its head normally, or is it tilting it slightly to one side? Are both of the ears being held in the same position, or is one drooping more than the other? Is the dog scratching its ears more than usual? The best test is to lift the earflap and smell. If you detect a foul odor, chances are that an ear infection is present or is about to occur. If the infection is severe, you may even be able to see redness within the ear canal, as well as infective debris draining from the ear. Infected ears are extremely painful, so be gentle when checking them. You can tie a tube sock around your dog's muzzle to discourage biting, but do not put yourself in danger if your dog is showing its teeth.

If you detect any abnormalities, or your dog won't allow you to examine its ears, you should schedule the first available veterinary appointment. The veterinarian will determine the best course of action based on your dog's level of pain and the stage of the disease.

After the acute stage of an ear infection is controlled, it is important to properly clean your dog's ears. An experienced animal health provider can teach you how to do this. Regular ear cleanings may prevent ear infections from occurring in the future. This is especially necessary if your dog swims a great deal, since excessive moisture in the ear can lead to infection.

For more information about ear infections, see the article Canine Ear Infections in our encyclopedia.

I am considering adopting a dog, but it is a hermaphrodite. Should I have it spayed/neutered? I am concerned that there can be other medical problems associated with this condition.

Yes, as neutering will help prevent pyometra and testicular cancer.

Because the reproductive system and the urinary tract are closely associated, the problems that your pet would most likely experience would involve malformations of the bladder, urethra and ureters. Consequently, urinary incontinence, bladder infection or inflammation, hematuria (blood in the urine) and complications from abnormal placement of the external urethral opening would be things to be concerned about. Discuss the possibilities of these complications with your veterinarian. After your pet is neutered, the doctor may be able to reassure you that the organ systems seem normal or apprise you of any abnormalities identified at the time of surgery. He or she may also recommend that x-rays with or without contrast agents be taken to evaluate the urinary tract. As you are no doubt aware, neutering is extremely important in these dogs in order to prevent pyometra, an infection of the uterus, and testicular cancer.

What can I put in my dog's food to give him a nice shiny coat? I don't want to change his food. I just want to add something. Can I use vegetable oil, olive oil, or raw eggs?

An omega fatty acid supplement may help.

In order to have a nice shiny coat it is necessary to provide your pet with a good quality diet. In general, supplementation is not necessary; however, in some cases adding an omega fatty acid supplement can do great things for a dry, brittle hair coat. These nutritional measures take a minimum of 10 to 12 weeks to start making a difference in the appearance of the skin and even longer for the hair coat.

You should speak to your veterinarian about which product he or she recommends and how much you should give your dog. It is best to use a fatty acid supplement that is formulated to enhance coat appearance rather than just adding oil to the food. These commercial products provide a balance of fatty acids that are optimized to use a minimum amount for the maximum effect. Excessive oil in the diet can lead to loose stools and obesity. Additionally, you should not give raw eggs to your dog. Raw eggs may be contaminated with Salmonella, which can cause a serious infection. Additionally, egg whites also contain a protein called avidin that binds biotin, part of the B vitamin complex; feeding raw eggs may result in a vitamin B deficiency that could be detrimental to your dog's health.

We are adopting a one-year old retriever mix from the shelter. What is the best way of introducing him to our other two-year old female dog?

Introduce them gradually.

Because both dogs are young, this transition will be a little less stressful for you than if the dogs were older. Introducing pets that are not too set in their ways usually makes things easier. It also helps that one dog is female; female dogs tend to be more accepting of outsiders than a more dominant male.

It is helpful to try to introduce them very gradually. It would be a good idea if the dogs could meet for the first time on neutral territory. Try taking them to a park or some location that is not on either one of their "turfs." Keep the dogs on leashes and allow them to sniff each other but do not give them the opportunity to fight. This interaction will give you a starting point. If there is aggression on neutral territory it may be quite difficult to move them in together.

It will be very important for you to reinforce the dominance hierarchy once established. This means that when one dog establishes itself as the top dog and wants attention you must give it to the dominant dog and rebuff the other if it comes seeking attention. This may be hard for you to do as most people feel for the "underdog." Unfortunately, if you push the dominant dog away to pet the dog of lower status, it can cause the top dog to punish the other pet.

In most cases there will not be an altercation, but be prepared for one anyway. Keep your pets on leashes even in the house. DO NOT GET BETWEEN FIGHTING DOGS. Even if your pets love you, when they are fighting they may bite you. Use their attached leashes to separate them.

Remember that gradual introduction is the key. Do not expect them to be best friends right away; tolerance is a good thing too. There is a very good article on VetCentric.com about introducing a new cat to the household. Most of the principles outlined there can be applied to dogs as well. Also, talk to your veterinarian. If there are problems, the doctor is your best source of information. If the problems are significant he or she may also recommend that a short course of medication is necessary to facilitate the transition.

My dog, a golden retriever, has a wound on her front right leg. It is about the size of a quarter and she keeps biting at it. She had been biting at this area before the wound appeared. My neighbor called the wound a "hot spot." What is this? What should I do to treat it?

An acute skin condition caused by self-inflicted injury.

A "hot spot," or acute moist dermatitis, is an acute, painful, erosive, inflammatory condition of the skin. It results when a dog repeatedly bites or scratches a specific area of its skin or ears. An underlying problem that produces itching or pain usually prompts this self-induced trauma. The hot spot will have a reddish border surrounding a central area of crusty, eroded or ulcerated skin. Hot spots are moist and tend to drain. They often are infected, usually with Staphylococcus intermedius, a bacterium similar to a type that causes boils in people. Small pockets of pus may appear to migrate out from the middle of the hot spot. Hair loss will occur in the affected area. Hot spots tend to occur in dogs living in hot, humid environments and in homes or facilities with poor ventilation. Large breeds are more likely to develop hot spots than smaller dog breeds.

There are many different conditions that may cause a dog to engage in this biting and scratching behavior. The most common cause is fleabite allergy. When a dog becomes sensitive to flea saliva, a fleabite will cause intense, persistent itching. Other allergies, including inhalation (atopy) and food allergies, may also cause scratching and biting that leads to the development of hot spots. Other conditions that may stimulate self trauma include inflammatory conditions of the skin, ears or anal sacs, bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections, and joint or muscle pain. Canine behavioral disorders may cause this as well.

Diagnosis of acute moist dermatitis is based on history, clinical signs of biting and scratching and the findings of a physical examination.Diagnosis of the underlying cause may require laboratory tests. These may include various skin tests for allergies, fleas and other parasites, fungal and yeast infections, or bacterial culture and susceptibility. Occasionally a skin biopsy may be necessary.

Treatment is directed both at the hot spot and the underlying cause of the biting or scratching.

An Elizabethan collar may be used to mechanically bar biting and scratching of the affected areas. Treatment for hot spots starts with clipping the moist hair to expose the lesion to the air. Clipping is a very important factor in treating these lesions, as they need to dry out in order to heal. Topical or oral medications, including corticosteroids (for their anti-inflammatory effect), antibiotics, and anti-pruritics (anti-itching drugs) may be given to help resolve the hot spot. Occasionally injectable forms of these medications are given. Drying agents may also be appropriate.

The underlying cause of the affected dog's biting and scratching is treated accordingly. If fleas or other parasites are involved, parasiticides are given and other control measures are taken. If allergies are causing the itching, antihistamines may be prescribed, as well as allergy shots if the allergen (the substance causing the allergic reaction) cannot be avoided. If pain due to arthritis or other conditions is involved, appropriate analgesics and anti-inflammatory medications may be prescribed.

You should take your dog to your veterinarian for a physical examination. First your veterinarian will make sure that the problem your dog has is a hot spot. Then he or she will determine the underlying cause of your dog's biting and scratching and recommend treatment. Your veterinarian may give you topical medications to help dry the lesion out and decrease the itch. Injections of steroids or oral steroid medications are often used for the acute flare-ups, but long-term control may be better achieved by successfully treating the underlying disorder.

Can I give my dog any medication for carsickness, such as Antivert or Dramamine? She vomits in the car. I would like to take her with me when I visit my sister who lives an hour and a half away. Is there any other treatment?

With behavioral modification and occasionally medication.

Dogs may get carsick for two reasons: motion sickness and car-related anxiety. Motion sickness occurs when the moving vehicle causes excessive and continuous stimulation of the vestibular (balancing) system of the inner ear, which transmits signals to the flocculonodular lobe (part of the cerebellum) of the brain. This stimulation in turn activates the vomiting center of the dog's brain. Anxiety-induced carsickness is caused when the affected dog becomes fearful of some aspect of travelling in a car.

Many veterinarians believe that carsickness in animals is more often due to anxiety (nervous or anxious behavior) than to the motion of the vehicle. This is the opposite circumstance to that of humans; most carsickness in people results from vehicular motion rather than anxiety. Although Dramamine (dimenhydrinate) or Antivert (meclizine) can be used safely in dogs, these drugs may not be effective in preventing anxiety-induced carsickness.

Most cases of carsick dogs can be resolved using behavioral modification techniques. Ideally efforts to "desensitize" dogs to car travel-related sickness should begin when they are puppies. Taking a puppy on numerous car trips of short duration may help. Generally the puppy should not have eaten within an hour or two of the trip at first. As travel anxiety abates, this restriction may be relaxed. Gradually, longer trips can be added until the dog is relatively free of car travel-related anxiety.

I recommend that you discuss options for decreasing carsickness with your veterinarian. He or she will know your pet's temperament best and be able to make an appropriate recommendation. Your veterinarian may prescribe a mild sedative and recommend additional conditioning techniques. The doctor will also examine your dog to make certain that there are no physical ailments, such as an inner ear problem, neurological disorder, metabolic disease, or toxin exposure, contributing to your dog's symptoms.

I just took home a new puppy.  What are the first steps I need to take as her owner?

Make an appointment with a veterinarian

Congratulations to you and your family! Welcome to the world of pet ownership. If this is your first dog, you will soon come to know the special bond that forms between human and animal. Studies have been done about the many health benefits of the human-animal bond. As long as you carefully foster the relationship, no one will love and respect you as much as a dog.

Many people joke that they'll try raising a dog before having children. But owning a dog is like having a child that remains in childhood for its entire life. Puppies need constant observation, just like toddlers. As adult dogs, they may need less intense observation.  Nevertheless, they still can be quite destructive or suffer dangerous problems if left unsupervised.

We recommend that you schedule a puppy check-up with a veterinarian as soon as possible. Most shelters, breeders, and pet stores require a post-purchase exam within 72 hours of taking home your new puppy. Take any records of your puppy's deworming and vaccinations. It is also a good idea to write down a list of questions that you may have for your veterinarian.

The veterinarian will examine the puppy to determine if it seems healthy and free of disease. After reviewing past records, a schedule for deworming and future vaccinations will be determined. Puppies need to receive multiple vaccinations until they reach the age of 19 to 20 weeks. You should limit your puppy's exposure to unknown dogs as well as canine excrement until the pet has completed its vaccination series.

As a newcomer to a human household, your puppy probably is going through many changes that can be very scary and stressful. It is helpful for you to plan for your new companion's homecoming ahead of time.

A list some of things you will need are:

• Food that the puppy has been eating. You can switch the diet over to a brand that you prefer, but you should do this slowly, over a two week period, to prevent stomach upset and diarrhea.
• A crate or carrier to be used as a sleeping area and for housetraining, once the puppy is used to it.
• Blankets or a lambswool pad for the crate.
• A baby gate or multiple gates.
• Newspaper or piddle pads.
• Food and water bowls û preferably metal.
• Antichew agents that can be applied to furniture, houseplants, and other household objects.
• Appropriate chew toys.
• A wide, flat collar that is fitted properly. You will go through a number of these as the puppy grows.
• A four-foot leash.
• Appropriate grooming tools û a slicker brush, a comb, cotton balls for ear cleaning, and other essentials.

We hope that this is information will help you get started.  Keep learning all that you can about your puppy so that you will be prepared to care for it throughout its life.

Our female dog likes to dine from our cat's litter box. We hate this, and we know it is not good for our dog to ingest litter either. Is there a product that we can put in the cat's food that will keep the dog from eating the feces? Thanks for your help.

Prevent the dog from getting access to them.

Your question concerns a very common problem. As disgusting as this habit is to us humans, dogs think that cat feces are quite the treat. Because some of the cat's diet is not digested completely and the feces typically give off a strong odor, it is understandable that a dog would try them. In a very few cases dogs will do this to supplement a dietary deficiency. However, in most situations affected dogs have well-balanced diets and have no clinically identifiable disease process that would drive this behavior. Although this habit does not usually cause any problems with dogs, it would be a good idea to have your veterinarian check your dog for intestinal parasites every six to 12 months.

If you have a dog that likes to greet you nose to nose, I can understand yet another reason why you don't find this behavior acceptable. Although adding monosodium glutamate or certain other food additives to the cat's food in order to make the stool disagreeable to the dog is often recommended, in my experience I have not found this approach to be a very effective deterrent to this behavior.

The best way to stop this is to prevent the dog from having access to the litter box. You can do this by creating some type of barrier that the dog can't get around. Or you could elevate the litter box higher than the dog can reach. If your dog is bigger than the standard-sized "cat door," you might consider installing one in the door of the room with the litter box. (Be sure, however, that your cat will actually use the cat door.) A final but slightly more expensive option is invisible electronic fencing wires placed in the home to keep the dog from accessing the designated areas. The dog would have to wear a special collar with this system. I hope that you find this information helpful.

My dog has been acting strangely.  He's always scooting around the floor on his rear.  Why is he doing this?  Should I be concerned?

Anal sac disease.

Anal sac impaction is a common reason that dogs scoot. Full anal sacs cause irritation and pressure around the anus. Dogs scoot in an attempt to relieve the sensations. Your veterinarian can check your dog's anal sacs and express them, hence eliminating this as a potential problem.

Your dog should be checked for tapeworms and other intestinal parasites, as these may also cause dogs to scoot. Tapeworms commonly appear as "white rice"segments around the dog's anus or in the stool. If you have seen this, tell your veterinarian.

Other potential causes of scooting can include sensitivity to diet, flea allergy, or skin infection.

Consult with your veterinarian for a specific diagnosis.

For more information about anal sacs, please read our encyclopedia article, "Anal Sac Disease."

I have an adult dog. How often does she need to go outside to urinate and have bowel movements? I have been letting my dog out so frequently, that I do not know how often she really needs to go out to eliminate as opposed to going out to run around in the yard. Lately she has not been as interested in going outside as often as before. How long can she go without urinating or having a bowel movement before I should become concerned that it may be a medical problem? Thank you.

It depends on dietary factors.

Typically, dogs need to go outside to defecate after they eat. This usually will happen one or a few times a day. The frequency depends on what type of food the dog eats (dry or canned), the amount of food eaten, and the amount of fiber in the diet. Diets with higher fiber content typically cause more bowel movements.

Dogs should urinate at least every eight to 10 hours. The actual frequency may vary according to dietary factors, including sodium (salt) or glucose (sugar) content and the amount of water consumed. Generally, normal daily urinary output in dogs is less than 20 milliliters per pound. Amounts greater than this may indicate an underlying health problem. There are many conditions associated with excessive urination, or polyuria.

I recommend letting your dog out first thing in the morning, after she eats, before you go to bed, and a few other times during the day. If your dog strains to defecate, stops eating, is vomiting, has diarrhea or doesn't have a bowel movement regularly (this will really depend on what is normal for your dog), or if urination seems excessive or unusually infrequent, you should seek the advice of your veterinarian.

My German shepherd has an old cruciate ligament injury, with arthritis apparent on the x-rays. I must decide whether to have it operated on or not. He is only two and one-half years old, but I hesitate to put him through the surgery if pain and restricted activity are likely to result. Will surgery make a significant improvement in his quality of life? What should we do?

Yes, the progression of disabling arthritis may be slowed or halted.

Your dog will do better in the long run if you have the surgery performed. The arthritis that is present is irreversible; but with surgery, the progression can be slowed or halted. Additionally, substantial cartilage damage will continue to occur until the knee is properly stabilized. This damage could result in marked worsening of your dog's lameness.

Many veterinarians have witnessed substantial recovery and improved function in dogs after surgery, especially when significant arthritis is present. There are several surgical approaches to treating a damaged cruciate ligament; in many veterinarians' opinions, the TPLOG procedure is more likely to afford the best result.

Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy® (TPLO) is a technique that utilizes a different approach to treating cranial cruciate ligament injury than other procedures. Rather than trying to oppose the forces acting on the cranial cruciate ligament in the normal knee joint, a TPLO® eliminates these forces -- and thus the need for a cranial cruciate ligament -- by changing the anatomy of the knee joint. This procedure requires that a bone cut be made in the tibia that is then stabilized with a specialized bone plate. Only veterinarians that have been trained and licensed by the developer of the technique are permitted to perform this surgery. In general, dogs weighing less than 40 pounds are too small for this procedure.

Should you decide not to pursue surgery, then you must realize that your dog may not be able to function beyond a relatively sedentary lifestyle. Good luck with your decision.

My cat vomits a hairball on my carpet every one to two months. What can I do to prevent this?

Use a hairball medication.

at groom themselves frequently, as well as in those that have long hair. When a cat grooms itself, it swallows hair, and over time the hair can accumulate within the stomach. Eventually, the hair causes enough irritation to the stomach that the cat will vomit it up.

Owners may opt to use hairball remedies such as Laxatone, which contain ingredients such as petroleum jelly that help bind the hair in the stomach and move it into the intestines  and passed in the feces. A cat treated with such a remedy will defecate the hairball instead of vomiting it.

Laxatone treatment initially is given daily for about a week, and then every couple of days thereafter for maintenance. Some cats need treatment only every few weeks to keep hair from accumulating. For those cats that reject Laxatone, there are now hairball diets and treats available that claim to decrease problems with hairballs. If a cat continues to vomit, have it examined by a veterinarian to be sure that the vomiting truly is caused by hairballs and not by an underlying disease. Cats that swallow string or toys may also vomit, but the ingesting of foreign objects is a more serious condition that requires veterinary attention.

My female dog was spayed at two years of age.  When she sleeps or rests, she leaks urine. I give her hormone pills, called phenylpropanolamine, and was told these would not hurt her. Why does she leak urine? Are these pills safe?

A common problem with several different causes.

Urinary incontinence, or leakage of urine, is commonly seen in middle-aged and older spayed females or neutered male dogs. Many veterinarians believe that a lack of hormones causes the urethral sphincter muscle to lose tone, therefore allowing urine to leak. However, there are several causes of urinary leakage. Hormone-responsive urinary incontinence is diagnosed after first ruling out a urinary tract infection and other urination problems.

Phenylpropanolamine is a medication that increases the tone of the urethral sphincter muscle, which helps to hold urine in the bladder. It is a relatively safe and effective medication that is one of the drugs of choice for urinary incontinence in older spayed female dogs. It is not a hormone, but an alpha-adrenergic drug.

Many experts now recommend the use of hormone replacement with a drug called diethylstilbestrol, or DES, in spayed female dogs. DES is typically given once a day for three to five days, then only once every seven to 15 days as needed to control the incontinence. Some dogs only need one pill every three weeks to prevent the leaking of urine. DES in high dosages can cause estrus, or heat-like signs, as well as bone marrow toxicity. However, in low dosages, this is usually not a problem. Male dogs can be given testosterone hormone replacement.

The phenylpropanolamine may be used instead of, or in addition to, DES or testosterone. Side effects of phenylpropanolamine can include hyperexcitability, panting, and decreased appetite. It also increases heart rate and blood pressure, so it should not be given with drugs such as ephedrine that may have similar effects. Hypertension, or high blood pressure, may develop when phenylpropanolamine is given with aspirin and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. When these drugs are used in combination, careful veterinary monitoring is required. This drug may need to be given one to three times a day to control incontinence.

Your veterinarian will be able to determine the best treatment protocol for your dog as well as the best dosage for these medications. The best treatment is the one that works, that does not cause your dog any problems, and that is easy to administer.

My cat will not urinate in her litter box. Instead, she urinates everywhere else in the house, including the area right next to the litter box. What can we do to stop this?

Manage the litter box.

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem for cat owners. It is possible that your cat is exhibiting this behavior because of an underlying medical disorder, so the pet should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out disease as a cause of inappropriate urination. Cats may urinate in inappropriate places because of urinary tract infections, bladder stones, and feline lower urinary tract disease. Tests such as urinalysis, bloodwork, and x-rays of the abdomen may identify the presence of such medical problems.

However, inappropriate urination is most often a behavioral problem. One of the most common reasons that cats stop using the litter box is that the box is not kept clean enough for their tastes. Boxes need to be scooped at least daily, and the litter should be changed frequently. Many cats are best accommodated with two separate boxes: one for urination and one for defecation. Both boxes must be kept clean. If you have multiple cats, many veterinarians recommend that you provide at least one litter box per cat. You may want to provide litter box access on each floor of the house.

Also consider whether your cat has access to the litter box. Is there a closed door blocking your cat's path to the litter box? In addition, a dog that stands guard or a dominant cat may not permit the affected cat to use the box. Other causes of aversion to the litter box include proximity to appliances that are noisy, such as televisions and washing machines, and those that turn on or off by use of a timer. Cats that are disturbed in the litter box by another cat, child, or dog may develop a litter box aversion as well.

It is possible that your cat is reacting to a change in the box location or type of litter. Some cats are very particular about where they go, and others are sensitive to the perfumes or dust in the litter. It may be necessary to try different types of litter -- for example, a non-clumping clay litter versus a sand-like clumping one -- until you find one that meets your pet's needs. In addition, if you provide the cat with a covered litter box, you might try switching to an uncovered box to see if the pet prefers it.

There are other methods for controlling inappropriate urination. You may want to move the litter box to the area where your cat is urinating. Always clean the soiled areas of your home with a non-ammonia cleaner. Because cats are drawn to the scent of urine, they may continue to go in the same inappropriate site if they are stimulated by the smell of previous accidents. The best cleaning products contain enzymes that degrade the urine and prevent stains. These products should be available through your veterinarian or local pet store. Because your cat may have a preference for carpet, you can change the way the area feels by using plastic carpet protectors or aluminum foil. This substrate change may make the litter box a preferred spot. In some cases, you may want to move your cat's food bowl to the area that she had previously soiled. Because cats are fastidious they don't like to eat and eliminate in the same place.

It is important to talk to your veterinarian about the inappropriate urination. He or she will have some additional suggestions tailored to the specific needs of your cat. In some cases, medication can be helpful in controlling the problem, but it is usually reserved for cases where other possibilities have been exhausted. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights.

I have heard that if an animal's nails are cut too short, the animal will bleed. Is it safe for me to clip my hamster's nails? And my dog's? How do I clip them?

It is safe if your veterinarian shows you how to cut them properly.

Yes, it is safe for you to clip your hamster's nails, but hamsters do not typically need to have their nails trimmed. Dogs and cats generally will need to have their nails clipped periodically, although cats will not usually need this very often. (Cats are very efficient at keeping nail length under reasonable control by biting them or clawing a scratching post or anything else that is handy.) Excessively long nails can cause discomfort and even damage to the footpads.

Before you attempt to clip your pet's nails for the first time, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will instruct you in the proper, safe way to clip the animal's nails. After the veterinarian shows you the first time, you should be able to do the nail trims at home, if needed.

The method of clipping the nails in dogs, cats, and hamsters is essentially the same for all three species. Generally the nail (claw) is somewhat curved. There is a blood vessel that runs lengthwise in each nail that can be accidentally clipped if the nails are cut too short. This vessel ends at approximately the point where the nail begins to curve down. Clipping below this level usually misses the vessel. You should have styptic powder available, so if you accidentally cut the vessel, you can stop the bleeding by applying the powder. Direct pressure will also stop bleeding.

There are two types of nail clippers. One is the guillotine clipper, which has a sharp cutting loop attached to a handle. The nail is placed inside the loop at the level to be cut. Manipulating the handle pulls the cutting loop toward the handle, cutting the nail in the process. The other type of clipper roughly looks like a pair of scissors; the cutting action is very similar.

Some dogs appear to be unusually sensitive to the nail trimming experience even without any known trauma or bad experiences. Desensitization and positive reinforcement techniques may sometimes help. A veterinarian can provide information about these techniques when needed.

Sometimes nail drills will be better tolerated. These drills are used for grinding nails and are not painful if used properly, but they are very noisy. Nervous, shy dogs will probably not allow all of the toes to be done. Use of a drill may, in fact, create a new anxiety. In such cases, nail trimming may require veterinary attention and anesthesia.

My dog's ears seem to develop some kind of build up in them. Lately he also has been scratching his ears a lot. Could his ears need cleaning out?

With cotton and a veterinarian-recommended cleaner.

Many people may not realize that routine grooming is an important part of caring for one's pet. More frequent ear cleaning may be required for dogs that suffer from ear infections.

My first recommendation is to have your veterinarian check your dog's ears for infection, mites and other problems. You can often tell if there is something wrong by smelling the ear area. If you smell a bad odor, chances are that there is something going on in the ear canal. If your dog is scratching at the ears or shaking his head, the problem is severe enough to be causing some discomfort.

There are different products used to clean the ears. Please consult your veterinarian about the appropriate cleaning agent for your dog's ears.

Most veterinarians will be more than happy to demonstrate an effective, painless cleaning method. I will provide a short overview for you. Either squirt the cleaner into the ear canal or soak a cotton ball with the solution and put it into the ear canal. Gently massage the ear at its base to distribute the cleaner for about 60 seconds.

Use your finger and cotton balls to clear the cleaner and debris from the ear canal. Wipe the ear from front to back. Repeat this process until the cotton balls no longer appear dirty after wiping the ear. Allowing your dog to shake his head in between these steps may help loosen any debris that is deeper in the canal--just be sure to plan ahead for a mild mess.

Avoid using Q-Tips, as you can puncture your dog's eardrum with them. Use your pinky and smaller pieces of cotton to clean the many crevices.

If your veterinarian prescribes any topical ear medications for your dog, apply it once the ear is clean. Your veterinarian will recommend how often you should clean and medicate the ears.

I think my cat may be pregnant, but I'm not sure. She is getting fatter, and she did run away for a while. Are there any signs I could look for to tell if she is pregnant?

Take it to the vet

Most cats are very fertile. If your pet has had access to the outside world while she was in heat, she is probably pregnant.

Pregnancy in the cat can be detected in several ways. First, your veterinarian can palpate the cat's abdomen at about 23 days of gestation and detect the fetuses in the uterus. Another method would be to perform an ultrasound examination. This can be performed to evaluate the status of the uterus at any time. At about 40 days of gestation the fetal skeletons ossify, or harden into bone, and an x-ray can detect the kittens. X-rays in late pregnancy are a safe way to both detect pregnancy and to find out how many new mouths there will be to feed.

It takes 61 to 63 days for kittens to gestate. Prior to your cat giving birth you may notice mammary development and nesting behavior.

You will want to discuss with your veterinarian what needs to be done for your pet to ensure that her health and the kittens' health are good. If she is not pregnant now, you may want to get her spayed so that you will not encounter this problem again. Please check out the encyclopedia article, "Spaying, Feline" for further information.

When you take your pet to the veterinarian, the doctor will perform a complete physical examination. This is very important because if she is not pregnant, you will want to make sure that nothing is wrong that has made her appear to be heavy.

We have been giving our 10-year old Lab-mix glucosamine daily and she is much more energetic and playful, but I'm concerned because this non-prescription medication is a human medication. Could it be harmful?

Generally it is safe.

Glucosamine is a nutraceutical product that has gained a lot of popularity. This compound is available in many forms, some of which are specifically designed for veterinary use. Primarily, glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate are used to help diminish the symptoms associated with osteoarthritis, which is the "wear and tear" type of arthritis. Although the usefulness of purified glycosaminoglycan has been documented, the efficacy of the oral combination product of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate is in dispute. Additionally, the formulations for these products are not standardized, making them even more difficult to evaluate.

The chondroitin portion of the supplement increases the elasticity of cartilage and may have anti-inflammatory properties. Both glucosamine and chondroitin are required for proteoglycan synthesis. These compounds assist in the joint's recovery from the constant trauma of the osteoarthritis. Theoretically, they are given as a source of cartilage matrix precursors and to stimulate regeneration. Unfortunately, the exact mechanism of action is poorly understood. Controlled studies for the effectiveness of these compounds are lacking. In general, these products are safe and have only a minimal chance of producing toxicity or allergic reactions. Minor gastrointestinal effects of soft stool and flatulence are usually overcome by reducing he dose.

If you find that these nutraceuticals are helping to improve your dog's quality of life, discuss their use with your veterinarian to make sure that they are the best choice for her.

My dog has very bad breath. I give him Milk Bones regularly and brush his teeth, but it does not help. What can I do to eliminate the odor?

Consult a veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and treat accordingly.

Bad breath, or halitosis, can be caused by many different medical and dental problems -- some of which may be serious. Because a potentially serious problem may be the cause of your dog's bad breath, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian for an examination to determine the cause. Some smaller breeds of dogs, such as poodles and Schnauzers, are well known for being predisposed to dental disease. Brachycephalic, or short-headed, dog breeds like the pug and bulldog also have a higher risk of developing dental problems.

Bad breath in dogs may be due to dental disorders such as periodontal disease, gingivitis and plaque buildup on the teeth, significant oral cavity disease such as abscesses, sores or ulcers, decaying tissue associated with cancer, and infections. Kidney and other organ system disease and diabetes and other metabolic problems may also cause halitosis.

Although some tartar control treats and brushing are helpful, if your dog's foul odor is due to plaque buildup, a professional dental cleaning will be necessary. More extensive dental problems may require specialized veterinary dental care. If other problems exist, such as infection, abscess, tumors, or metabolic or other systemic diseases, they will require veterinary attention. Please consult your veterinarian promptly.